Email Update 5: Enter Any Museum In Paris For Free?
Thursday, October 30th, 2008Bonjour, friends and family,
I write to you with more news from the cosmopolitan capital of France. In recent developments: the economic crisis and the pumping of European government money into the economy to stimulate trade, and the American election, which generates a fair amount of interest here. For the economy,
the same questions plague France, and everybody watches to see what Nicholas Sarkozy, president of France and temporary president of the European Union, will do next.
For me personally, I feel much more comfortable after this past month in Paris. I do in fact get into most of the museums in Paris for free, thanks to a pass provided by my program that indicates that I study in the European Union. I have had the time to develop personal habits and to get to know the city, the university system, and Parisian culture. I encounter more and more French, and American, students with whom I share common interests. Thanks to the help of a friend who lives in the same apartment building and is a web programmer, I built my own website, SiegelSounds.com, just for fun. Who knows, but it might be an interesting skill to develop in the workplace after college…
I went with several friends from my program on Sunday night to see “Edward Scissorhands,” as a ballet, at a theater near the Seine river. The dancing was incredible - imagine a professional cast of ballet dancers dressed up as shrubberies that Edward had styled, in complex coreography, while the main character performs turns and lifts without using his hands, which are hampered by the existence of giant scissors in each palm. Very impressive.
I love my music history class; it’s not part of the Paris University system, because the professor dislikes the way the system works, but at the Schola Cantorum, a small private school south of the Seine. We discuss everything from anthropology to philosophy, the way societies function, the relation of music to dance, the relation of music to mysticism and Number, and other fascinating ideas. My math classes, at the University of Paris, are going well. I feel lucky in that often in the University system, a student, especially a foreign student, can feel lost, whereas my math classes are specialized enough that I can contribute, and even be a familiar face to the professors.
The biggest news in my life is a trip I took last weekend, when several of my Friday classes were canceled. I decided three weeks ago that I wanted to, someday, visit the town where my great-great-grandparents were born, and see if any of the gravestones in any nearby cemeteries came from the “Siegel” family. Knowing that two of my classes were canceled, I bought a plane ticket to the Ukraine, and did some research on the Internet. According to my grandfather, his maternal grandparents had come from a town called Khotyn, in the region Bessarabia. My plane changed at Vilnius, in Lithuania, and landed in Kiev on Friday night. Then the adventure really started. That night, I had to find where to buy a bus ticket and where to catch the bus, without speaking a word of Ukrainian. The bus, it turns out, was 45 minutes late, which I guess only added to the excitement. I traveled 400 km overnight, arriving in the moderate-sized town of Chernivtsi on Saturday morning, and walked immediately from the bus station to the Chernivtsi synagogue, where I found a representation of the small Jewish population of Chernivtsi at Saturday morning prayers. With my terrible Hebrew, and what little English they could muster, we managed to communicate that I was looking for a Jewish cemetery in the nearby town of Khotyn. One of the men, named Baruch Fichman, took it upon himself to explain that I needed to catch a bus the next morning. In the meantime, he brought me to visit a man named Zislis, one of his close friends, a man who had been born in Khotyn and who had just had his 103rd birthday the day before I arrived. This incredible encounter was underscored by the fact that, given his age, Zislis could possibly have known my great-great-grandparents. However, he spoke Yiddish, Russian, and Ukrainian, and was a loud and excited man, and Baruch had much trouble translating anything he said into either Hebrew or English, the two languages I would understand.
That night, I stayed in a hotel, and the following morning caught a bus to Khotyn. Upon arriving at the Khotyn bus station, I realized I had no clue where to find the Jewish cemetery, aside from a suggestion from a US government document I had found on the internet that the cemetery was “to the north”. I asked at the first restaurant I found, and none of the employees understood word I said, even when I attempted to pronounce the phrases I found in my Ukrainian phrasebook. In the end, I showed them a phrase that Zislis’ wife had written on a slip of paper for me before I left their apartment, and that was apparently comprehensible, because one of the women working at the restaurant called a taxi for me. When the taxi arrived, she got in with me, and we drove to the house of one of her friends, one of the fewer than 10 Jews left in Khotyn, and who was, thanks to an incredible coincidence, professor of French at a nearby university. We were able to understand and communicate with each other, and in this way, the woman gave me a personal tour of the Jewish cemetery in Khotyn, where her parents were buried. This was incredibly moving. The cemetery, with more than 1000 graves, is overgrown with vegetation, and the tombstones have worn down, so unless I spent a month working every day to clear the cemetery, I would never be able to find a specific grave that may have belonged to members of my family. At this point, it seems that my genealogy becomes a communal history, following the Jews in Khotyn and Chernivtsi, who at one point were so numerous that Chernivtsi was more than half Jewish.
I also spent a day in Kiev, seeing Independence Square and other old buildings in this beautiful city. On the train to Kiev, completely by coincidence, I encountered another Russian Jew, a man who snacked on beer and dried fish, wore a cylindrical hat and had a long ponytail. I also stayed in a youth hostel that night, and made the acquaintance of a young Russian Internet marketer who enthusiastically explained his business idea of a new hostel website. All in all, the people I met on this voyage were perhaps even more interesting and unique than the country itself.I have put some of the photos from this trip on the Internet, on the website I created (www.siegelsounds.com). I’d love to hear what you think, through e-mail or other means. Also, if you find errors on the website, please tell me so I can fix them. Much appreciated.
I hope life is going well for all of you. I’ll send out another e-mail update in November.
A bientot, et à votre santé,
Jacob Siegel
